So, here’s the deal. The cars you see as “simple EFI”, like 90s/00s cars, are still highly computerized. My 2008 Sienna has at least 10 different computers, yet has none of the “smart” stuff and no serial/VIN pairing… Well, except maybe like the security module, but nobody gives a shit about that and it can be tuned out anyway.
This era of vehicle is my favorite to tinker with, because in my own career I specialize in low voltage electronic systems, automation, mechanical systems, and making it all play nice together from a computer.
(Proofreading Lka1988 here - long tangent warning)
Well it turns out that vehicles made from the mid-2000s through the mid-to-late 2010s is perfect for someone like me. I have two Toyotas: the aforementioned Sienna, and a 2015 Highlander. Both have the same engine, the legendary 2GR-FE V6, based in the same platform (Camry), yet drive completely differently in terms of engine control and the precision of it.
The Highlander has a beautiful, smooth as silk U660F 6-speed and glides through the gears up to speed.
Meanwhile, the Sienna just absolutely fucking freight-trains itself to speed through the ever-clunky U151E 5-speed with 277k original miles and a sporadic ATF/filter change thrown in for good measure.
I’ve added a bunch of factory upgrade shit to the Sienna for dirt cheap thanks to junkyards. Adding fog lights just needed the lights themselves, the appropriate headlight stalk, and hey, might as well grab the light sensor from this XLE over here and it’s headlight stalk…aaaand now I have fully automatic headlights and fog lights for $40. The harness was already provisioned for it. All the computers needed was to see the components. Worked the first time, 100% factory. I did this with the optional power inverter, auto dimming rear view mirror, all of the optional steering wheel buttons, hood latch sensor, and a bunch more factory shit that I forgot about because I did it so soon.
Anyway, this isn’t the first vehicle I’ve done this to. I added additional factory steering wheel buttons to my former 2013 Caravan, so its aftermarket Pioneer headunit and the iDatalink module had more input controls to program. Which I did.
Point is, all of these cars never had a single problem with their electronic throttles, or any part of the computer systems that wasn’t blatantly user error. In fact, the only kind of problem I’ve ever had with any of that kind of vehicle was a mechanical problem. The Caravan’s transmission shit itself around 100k or so. The Sienna’s power door cable snapped around 250k. I fixed it with improved parts from eBay for $30. The Highlander… Ehhhh… it’s only got 127k and hasn’t given us a single issue in our many years of ownership. I get why people tend to keep them the longest…
Although, I think I got you beat. My 1980 Mercedes 240D has 483k miles, and change. It just shat a valve guide. Still ran though. And I get why people love these things, they are stupid simple to work on. I had the freakishly-heavy cylinder head off in 3 hours. From “hood closed” to “head on my workbench”. I took my time, too. This is a SOHC diesel, mind you, so there’s also timing chain I had to worry about.
So, here’s the deal. The cars you see as “simple EFI”, like 90s/00s cars, are still highly computerized. My 2008 Sienna has at least 10 different computers, yet has none of the “smart” stuff and no serial/VIN pairing… Well, except maybe like the security module, but nobody gives a shit about that and it can be tuned out anyway.
This era of vehicle is my favorite to tinker with, because in my own career I specialize in low voltage electronic systems, automation, mechanical systems, and making it all play nice together from a computer.
(Proofreading Lka1988 here - long tangent warning)
Well it turns out that vehicles made from the mid-2000s through the mid-to-late 2010s is perfect for someone like me. I have two Toyotas: the aforementioned Sienna, and a 2015 Highlander. Both have the same engine, the legendary 2GR-FE V6, based in the same platform (Camry), yet drive completely differently in terms of engine control and the precision of it.
The Highlander has a beautiful, smooth as silk U660F 6-speed and glides through the gears up to speed.
Meanwhile, the Sienna just absolutely fucking freight-trains itself to speed through the ever-clunky U151E 5-speed with 277k original miles and a sporadic ATF/filter change thrown in for good measure.
I’ve added a bunch of factory upgrade shit to the Sienna for dirt cheap thanks to junkyards. Adding fog lights just needed the lights themselves, the appropriate headlight stalk, and hey, might as well grab the light sensor from this XLE over here and it’s headlight stalk…aaaand now I have fully automatic headlights and fog lights for $40. The harness was already provisioned for it. All the computers needed was to see the components. Worked the first time, 100% factory. I did this with the optional power inverter, auto dimming rear view mirror, all of the optional steering wheel buttons, hood latch sensor, and a bunch more factory shit that I forgot about because I did it so soon.
Anyway, this isn’t the first vehicle I’ve done this to. I added additional factory steering wheel buttons to my former 2013 Caravan, so its aftermarket Pioneer headunit and the iDatalink module had more input controls to program. Which I did.
Point is, all of these cars never had a single problem with their electronic throttles, or any part of the computer systems that wasn’t blatantly user error. In fact, the only kind of problem I’ve ever had with any of that kind of vehicle was a mechanical problem. The Caravan’s transmission shit itself around 100k or so. The Sienna’s power door cable snapped around 250k. I fixed it with improved parts from eBay for $30. The Highlander… Ehhhh… it’s only got 127k and hasn’t given us a single issue in our many years of ownership. I get why people tend to keep them the longest…
Although, I think I got you beat. My 1980 Mercedes 240D has 483k miles, and change. It just shat a valve guide. Still ran though. And I get why people love these things, they are stupid simple to work on. I had the freakishly-heavy cylinder head off in 3 hours. From “hood closed” to “head on my workbench”. I took my time, too. This is a SOHC diesel, mind you, so there’s also timing chain I had to worry about.