NonSteamLaunchers may be the easiest way, but it’s no longer on the decky store due to some drama stuff. Instead you download the zip file, unzip it, and then place the whole folder into ~/homebrew/plugins. Restart steam and it should show up.
Otherwise I’ve used bottles on desktop to install it. Unfortunately Lutris installs are becoming increasingly unreliable in my experience.
It is rendering at a lower setting, and then using fsr/etc to upscale. It’s basically necessary to run the game at all.
However the shaky frame rate issues are probably more an optimization issue, and will be hard (or impossible) to get rid of.
Thanks, posted this from my phone and didn’t even notice the title issues.
Was looking at moving over, but among other things their mobile client is paid, and poorly reviewed. My main discord community is 1100 members, it’s already going to be hard to get most of them to jump to another platform without it costing all of them for phone access.
It apparently used to say it on Valve’s official FAQ for the steam deck, but it’s since been rewritten to only mention the bios method. I found a 4 year old reddit post where they directly quoted the older version of the page.
I also confirmed on my Steam Deck that it works, I was able to get the double blue led flash (which confirms you’ve entered battery storage mode on the OLED) by plugging the deck in, turning it off, holding vol+ and QAM for 10 seconds, and then unplugging the Deck (while still holding the buttons)
He said it was the quick access button (QAM), which is the “. . .” button, not the select button. You can also see him pressing it in the video with his right thumb.
Also I finally found it, that button combo puts the Deck in battery storage mode.
Remnant 2 is acceptable, I played through it with a friend some months back. Can’t use any framegen with it (even lsfg) or the input lag is horrible, and the framerate is never stable, but it was able to hold a shaky 30 for basically my whole playthrough, while looking decent.
Huh, is that a new shortcut, or did they get confused about the UEFI reset shortcut:
Hold down Volume Down+Power+⋯ (“Three Dots” button under the right touchpad) to reset the UEFI settings to their defaults (keep the two buttons other than Power held after the first blink of the LED: the LED will blink during the operation and stop once done, then release the buttons).
I’ve never heard of volume up+… as a functional shortcut before.
EDIT I found what it is, that button combo (followed by unplugging the Deck) forcibly puts the Deck into Battery Storage mode without being able to access the BIOS.
He then plugged it back in, exciting battery storage mode and booting the deck.
That’s not a short, by definition.
Thing is, you also called it “shorting” the battery. Usually a short is an unintended, unsustainable low resistance path.
While your body may technically close the circuit, calling it a short makes it sound like an actual electricution risk. That combined with the unclear “no issue” usage made it pretty confusing, I thought you had no idea what you were talking about until I saw your reply.
What clients ate people using for Matrix? The ones I’ve tried are usable but not user friendly enough for me to be able to move my whole community over.
Some people in my communities are looking at Root, it lets you directly import a discord server template when creating a server. It has a nicer UI than all the matrix apps and stoat, but isn’t as open as those.
The way you worded it makes it sound like it’s very easy to short a battery with your body, not that attempting to short a battery will cause “no issue” because it won’t actually work.
I would guess it’s probably focused on ones that are prosecutable as threats. That would be enough for it to not be protected as free speech.
We’ll have to wait to know for sure though.
Sounds like it comes with a refillable cartridge, but you can also use off the shelf HP cartridges.
And since there’s no DRM, 3rd party cartridges will work too.
I’ve also run into games on steam that specifically failed to identify my language on Linux. I can generally tell what options I need to pick to change a language back to English, but some langauges like Chinese and Korean are difficult to to navigate.
Yeah, it’s definitely more for a specific groups of people, such as those who play old untranslated emulated titles and such.
People are looking at the price of the steam decks and non-pro versions of consoles.
The m.2 SSD is easily accessible, it comes with a 2230 m.2 (same size as the Steam Deck), but has room to install a full size 2280 m.2. It only has room for 1 though, so while you can upgrade to a larger size you can’t add a second. Swapping out the m.2 will require cloning your drive or reinstalling SteamOS to the new drive.
There’s also a high speed microSD slot for even easier space upgrades, and microSDs with games can be swapped directly between the Deck and Machine.
For RAM, it uses laptop DDR5. It is user upgradable, but isn’t as easy to access as the m.2 drive is.
A few ideas:
You may want to try disabling steam input for the game, and just using the game’s built in controller support. Go to the game’s page in your steam library, hit the gear, go to properties>controller, and then pick disable steam input. Then try the game and see if it works any better.
On PC if the game supports a walk keybind, with steam input enabled you could bind that to a back button, and then hold it down to walk.
You said you tweaked deadzones, but was that in the game’s settings or in the steam input settings? You may want to try editing the other one (ie lowering the deadzone size in steam controller settings, adjusting the deadzone size/type in game, and adjusting the stick response curve in game)
You can also check community control profiles, the top ones may have a work around to fix it, or there’s probably one that’s simulating mouse/keyboard that would bypass this issue completely.