Sometimes the connection to the TV drops and it goes black for a few seconds

I had this issue for a long time, but it turned out it was just a bad HDMI cable. Swapped cables and it never happened again. Might be worth a try.

Probably was marked as sold out for awhile, I’ve seen at least 4 different websites report on it being sold out earlier today. I’m assuming some of those sites actually verified it showed as sold out online.

I just used the current article title.

It is noteworthy that it sold out, despite the price hike. Apparently it’s still desirable at that price, although without actual sales numbers it’s hard to say for sure.

Ouch, that’s rough.

I mean, this is technically better than it just not being available. But those prices are hard to swallow, makes me really glad to already have mine. Really hope nothing happens to it.

I flip to desktop mode and use the Steam Link app to connect to my PC. If you are looking to play a really high end game via streaming, I recommended not using the SteamOS streaming and rather using the SteamLink app. Performance and controller detection work much better.

That’s an interesting idea, I’ll try it out. Haven’t had much luck with Moonlight/etc working on my setup. Steam streaming is easy to use but performance is mixed, so improved steam streaming sounds great.

I appreciate the ascii drawing, thanks for including it!

Personally I’ve been encountering more issues with docking than I used to have. Seems like it will work fine in either docked or handheld mode by themselves, but swapping between the two will cause a game to crash or steamOS to restart within the next 5-10 minutes.

I am on beta, so it could just be a SteamOS bug that’s not in the normal builds.

There are some non-Steam games that I can’t run through Steam because of its sandboxing (bubblewrap and pressure-vessel and such).

Do you mind giving some examples of what kind of issues you’re having here?

I’ve had really good luck with running external games through steam, so I’m just curious what kind of issues you’re having.

I probably enjoyed 2 & 3 the most of the series, but I’ve been meaning go back and play the Steam version of the first one. The english translation wasn’t great when I played it, and I had mixed feelings about the day time limit.

My main point was that even if Plex is the best solution, the $750 lifetime fee was enough for me to put up with some inconveniences of Jellyfin even if it wasn’t as easy.

Not saying Jellyfin is better than Plex, but Plex has to be a lot better for the price increase to be justified.

I know you’re just trying to make a point, but in case you’re serious:

You can’t install tailscale because Roku is a closed device, so your best remaining options are:

1. Use a Raspberry pi, old phone, or another device on the network to gateway, using Tailscale’s subnet routing feature.
2. Buy a google TV device instead, which will support Tailscale. Cheaper ones cost $20, with 4k ones starting at $25. Will save you $725 compared to the Plex lifetime subscription

Thankfully haven’t encountered that myself, sounds terrible.

I am on the beta update channel, so might be worth switching to beta for awhile to see if it fixes it for you.

Oh I hadn’t even noticed that. Are you talking about where you can “fling” the virtual ball and have momentum carry the cursor across the screen?

Also is your username based on the Witchspring character? Or something else?

Yeah, it’s sometimes hard to use other people’s config layouts for that reason. Even with being able to label the inputs on the “input overview” screen, it can be unclear how to use the more complex profiles. And many input profiles might require specific game settings to work properly (like small deadzone settings for gyro joystick aiming, etc).

A lot of times even if a game has a lot of community profiles available, I’ll end up making my own. That way there’s no question on how to use it, and I can tweak it as I go if I run into any issues.

Virtual Menus are great for any PC first games imo. Being able to setup direct weapon shortcuts (instead of cycling through) or having direct shortcuts to map/journal/inventory/etc is really nice. Also things like quicksave/quick load menus.

Tailscale was suggested above as an easier alternative to setting up a reverse proxy. If tailscale isn’t a good option, then I would push forward with getting a reverse proxy setup.

I’m willing to work past a lot of shortcomings when the alternative is $750. Plus anything learning how to overcome those shortcomings will have benefits beyond just setting up jellyfin.

“do you use KDE or Gnome?”

“Minecraft”

Valve famously has a flat management structure, meaning valve employees don’t have traditional bosses. The employees are generally self directed, choosing what projects they want to work on.

So something like this would be a Valve dev deciding the best use of his time for the day was to add SDL support for the Steam Controller. He did the work, didn’t have to request approval for the project, and Valve paid him to do it.

It may not be something that there was any organized, official push by valve to do. But their management structure encourages this kind of thing and pays for it.

They’ve released a couple firmware/steam updates for people having doubled inputs, so definitely make sure you have those all installed. A new firmware update for the controller was released last night.

Under Controller>Advanced settings in steam big picture mode, you can try forcibly updating all hardwired controllers.

You shouldn’t be having any signal issues at that range, so you either have something defective or some really bad signal interference. I’m leaning towards something being defective, because my puck doesn’t have line of sight, is immediately next to a router and a bunch of bluetooth devices, and hasn’t had any connection issues. You also mentioned the issues happening while wired, which definitely suggests a controller issue and not a connection problem.