I did some reading on it after posting my comment, it sounds like there’s been a pretty major improvement in rechargeable AA batteries in the last 10 years. Capacity has improved by 70+%, and much less power is lost during standby. So it’s probably worth trying again, I had just been avoiding them due to how poor the performance was back then.
What kind of rechargeable AA batteries do you use? I’ve tried a lot over the years for wiimotes/other controllers, but the battery life is kinda terrible.
The new steam controller is supposed to have 35 hours of battery life, I seem to remember my rechargeable AA powered controllers only getting like 2-4 hours per charge. They might have gotten 4-6 hours when they were new, but it wasn’t much better. Seems like even if the steam controller battery deteriorates to 50% capacity (17.5 hours) that would still be far better than my results with rechargeable AA batteries.
I would highly recommend upgrading the SSD. There is a major difference in download/install speed, update speed, and a notable improvement in loading times. Some newer games will struggle to run on a microSD at all, because they load assets in real time and the read speed is too slow.
I typically install small and older games to my microSD, but for anything modern or larger than a few GB I stick to my SSD.
For cloning mine when I upgraded, I actually just removed the old SSD from my deck, plugged it and the new SSD into my computer (didn’t bother with screwing them down), and cloned them there. My main PC is linux, so it could clone the ext4/btrfs formatted drive without any additional software. If you do this with a windows PC you’ll probably need special software. Another issue you can run into (especially with windows based cloning tools) is that many of them will clone the partitions exactly, meaning your new drive (despite being larger) only has partitions sized the same size as the original drive. On linux you can clone the partitions and then expand the partition to the full drive size, but I don’t know if this can be done with the compatible windows clone tools.
Your best bet (if your main PC is windows) is probably to make a linux bootable drive (can be any linux distro with live boot and gparted/kparted, but Rescuezilla and Clonezilla are made specifically for this kind of thing) and boot the PC from that. That will give you full access to the linux tools for easily cloning and resizing the drive.
Alternatively, you may also just want to install the new SSD in the Deck, and reinstall steamOS using a steamOS recovery drive. It won’t transfer over your files, but all your steam games/cloud saves should be easy to redownload. This is probably the easiest option.
Try putting it forcibly into battery storage mode:
With the Deck turned off and plugged into the charger, hold down Volume Up+⋯ (“Three Dots” button under the right touchpad) for 10 seconds, and then unplug the Deck to enter Battery Storage Mode. On LCD models the LED will then flash 3 times, on OLED models the LED will blink blue twice.
After that, plug it back in, and it will hopefully turn on. Some people have had luck reviving a non-responsive deck this way when nothing else has worked.
Oops yeah, thanks for the catch. Fixed now.
Sounds like a pain in the butt, but I’m glad you got it fixed!
It seems to be real, it’s from mechanism who’s a company that sells various mounting accessories. They all use interchangable quick connections, so you can use them for ridiculous combinations like this.
The chest strap for example is meant to be used like this:
But you can also remove the mount and connect the deck directly to your chest with it.
It’s possibly a damaged cable, they’re pretty delicate.
Also, are you sure you bought the same type of replacement audio board? The original LCD decks used two ribbon cables to connect the audio board, while the revised design LCDs and OLEDs use only a single cable. If you bought the wrong audio board it may have a secondary unused ribbon connector, and won’t work with just the single ribbon cable of the newer decks.
A lot of AAA games require some setting tweaks, but most will run decently at 30fps. Main exceptions are UE5 games, games with mandatory ray tracing for lighting (id’s new engine), and MH Wilds for some reason (every other game on the RE engine runs great afaik, except for Wilds).
UE5 games partially suffer from mandatory ray tracing as well (lumens), but even with mods disabling lumens, they still are hit or miss on performance. There’s a mesa update in the pipeline that massively improves ray tracing performance on the deck which will help the non-modded performance of UE5 games and all other mandatory ray tracing games, but I don’t know when it will actually reach the deck through official update channels.
OpenAI is failing to monetize their model, is falling behind on Claude on benchmarks, can’t compete with Google on pricing/costs, is struggling to retain talent, and people don’t trust Sam Altman.
Unless something major changes, it really seems like we’ve passed the peak of OpenAI’s trajectory and it’ll be mostly downhill from here.
Valve was probably spying on you specifically.
“Oh it’s finally breaking, prepare the shipments”
When the deck goes to sleep, it does the suspend animation, so you know it’s going to sleep. If I remember right you’ll also have a notification in the bottom right of the screen saying low battery or something similar when it happens.
If the deck is asleep and gets low on power, nothing will happen. I guess if you wake up the deck with the power low enough it might flash the low battery notification and go back to sleep, but I’ve never had that happen. I had mine set to auto sleep at 5% and I never tried to wake the deck back up before I plugged it in after the auto suspend.
I was mainly using it back when there was a nasty bug that the deck dying from low power could result in the CPU/GPU being permanently throttled to 400 Mhz, effectively making the deck useless.
It’s in proton 11(beta) and proton experimental, which are both available on the deck in the compatibility menu for games. I don’t know when proton 11 will move past being beta.
Two plugins you may want to consider:
AutoSuspend - you can set the deck to automatically go to sleep at 5% or another threshold, to prevent the deck from dying while playing. I believe you can configure additional low battery alerts in it as well.
MangoPEEL - The deck uses MangoHUD for the in-game performance monitor. You can use MangoPEEL to customize those monitors, so you can change one of the the deck’s monitor labels to just show battery percentage, battery percentage + remaining minutes of battery life, or something similar. I can’t remember if an actual battery bar is possible, but it’s probably not.
I think you just need the install script, and then it will download the plugin.
The dev recommendeds using the command:
curl -sL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/MuteMotion-Tech/MuteMotion-SteamDeck-Shim/main/install.sh | bash
Which just downloads the install script (readable here) and runs it. The script downloads
And extracts it to a new folder in your decky plugin folder, then sets permissions for it, and restarts decky.
iOS has it built in as an accessibility setting apparently, on Android there are multiple apps like KineStop that offer some version of it.
He has a son who will supposedly take over, but we’ll have to see how that goes when it happens.
The usual rule with denuvo is that if you change proton versions 5 times within 24 hours, it will lock you out for 24 hours.
As far as denuvo can tell, every proton version is a different PC, so they don’t want you sharing the game between more than 5 different PCs per day.
If you have an OLED deck, the LB button switch is actually part of the joystick, and is very easy to replace. There could also be something wrong with the button mechanism, you’ll have to look and see.
If you have an LCD deck, the LB button switch is actually on the same daughter board as the dpad/etc and will be harder to replace.
Yeah for sure, any 2D games or smaller games usually get installed to my microSD. But I usually don’t want to install anything larger than a couple GB to the microSD just because it takes forever to install and update.
I should also mention that some larger games (ie Cyberpunk) specifically have slow storage settings, that will try to compensate for using slower storage like a microSD. It won’t help with install/update times or general load times, but it will help some of the gameplay issues you can run into while playing.