

In most common case you can think VLANs at the firewall end like whole different physical networks. On port LAN1 you have a switch and whatever else you happen to have, on LAN2 similar setup and so on. All the networks can (and should) have their own IP range and it’s the firewall who decides what traffic is allowed, like is a machine in LAN1 allowed to talk with printer on LAN2.
Virtual LAN just bundles that all to one set of cables and network devices with the obvious benefit that you can have benefits of multiple networks for security, access control or whatever but you don’t need extra hardware for each setup. In theory it is possible to break out of VLAN separation, but in practice it’s really not something a home gamer should worry about too much.
What you need is a managed switch (or multiple if needed) so that you can assign ports to different VLANs or a combination of many VLANs in a single port, commonly known as trunk. Some unmanaged switches pass trough VLAN frames as is, but it’s not guaranteed, so safe bet is to get only managed switches.
For the firewall/router, the best option would be to either drop the ISP router totally or if possible use bridged port on it so that you can get ‘raw’ internet to your own device. You can make it work with ‘LAN’ port on your current router too, there’s just one set of port forwarding and firewall rules extra to manage before anything even hits your own network. Instead of firewall PC I’d recommend an actual router. They are often more suited to the task, are physically smaller and tend to consume less energy. Also dedicated firewall/routers are often a bit cheaper (at least less than 600$, I paid ~150€ for my router). I personally have a Mikrotik device and I like it, but there’s plenty decent ones to choose from. PC will work as well, but they tend to have more potentially failing components than dedicated routers.
But in general, at least I can’t see anything fundamentally wrong with your plan. Remember to have fun while setting it up.






I haven’t really paid attention on prosumer-hardware lately as my RB4011iGS+RM just keeps on working. 6 watts is really low tho, according to spec sheet my router pulls 18W 24VDC. Few links I checked from your original post however give 15W TDP, so maybe some seller is pulling numbers out of their sleeve or there’s differences between models. Either way, those are pretty damn efficient boxes.
With that celeron CPU I think they have less troughput than what I’m running, but if your internet connection isn’t several hundred megabits I don’t think that’ll be an issue. I had issues with some edgerouter, while it claimed to do full gigabit in practise it managed only up to ~700Mbps and even less than that with even slightly complicated routing.
I don’t have any direct recommendations, but I’d stay away from TP-Link and other budget brands which often promise a lot more than they can actually deliver. My switches are from HPE and they are pretty cheap second hand (or even free if you happen to stumble in a office renewal somewhere).