- cross-posted to:
- videos@lemmy.world
- cross-posted to:
- videos@lemmy.world
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I’ve been charging my cars this way for 9 years. You do need a sufficiently efficient vehicle. You ain’t charging a Hummer this way. Also I recommend getting a “heavy duty” receptacle because I have melted a couple of them after a while.
I charge both my ridiculous Lightning and PHEV Volvo this way.
But I’m on track for only about 3500 miles for the year (10 months in) on the lightning.
He makes good videos in general and this one is long enough I’ll have to make time to watch as usual, but as he has ranted about extension cords in the past, I’m not sure that it’s a wise idea to make the case to just use any plug and pull maximum (12? Amps) current for 10 or more hours continuously, let alone with the potential addition of an extension cord because the garage outlet isn’t quite in the right spot.
I think for safety reasons it’s probably best for people to have a shiny purpose built high amperage circuit installed so that old work doesn’t burn the house down. Even if it’s just a dedicated 110V in the USA (which adds transmission losses a bit too).
The UK is mandating heat pumps in new builds. Should they carry that further and mandate a EVSE circuit for every parking spot?
Standard outlets are rated for 15A. The vehicle is already de-rating by 20% (to 12A) per NEC requirements for any appliance running for more than 3 hours continuously (which is how you get 1800W hair dryers but only 1440W space heaters).
Assuming code was followed for your house wiring, nothing is at risk there.
Then it’s just a matter of buying the right extension cord. Note that the vehicle will refuse to charge if the input voltage drops below a certain level (in my car, I think it’s around 110V).
So you only have to worry about a 10V drop at 12A or 120W of heat dissipation. Assuming all of this happens inside your extension cord, you just need to make sure you don’t coil it up too tightly (or, better, don’t use such a cheap cord).
Then it’s just a matter of biting the right extension cord
Right.
As TC has covered this before, consumers are clueless (and cheap) about extension cords.
Also, just because code is/has changed, doesn’t address current homes and also imperfect installs. How often have I seen loose screws on outlets…
No, charging for high current, long charge time items like this should be like any other high current, long-run devices like stoves, dryers, etc, using a dedicated, properly sized circuit.
I don’t want my house burning down because my neighbor was clueless and caught their lithium battery on fire.
Right, but people use space heaters all the time inside their homes. This is even less dangerous because people tend not to park their cars on carpet and EVs store most of that energy instead of using it to heat up the drapes.
If we’re worried about pulling 12A out of a 15A outlet, there is much more to be worried about before we get to cars.
As TC has covered this before, consumers are clueless (and cheap) about extension cords.
Only a danger if the cord is tightly coiled and drops enough voltage to get warm, but not enough to trip the car’s protection circuit. A lot has to go wrong for this to be a major problem.
Also all extension cords are wrapped in fire retardant plastic, so it’d likely melt, short out, blow the breaker, and nothing would happen.
Electrical code is wrapped in many layers of safety. You really have to try to hurt yourself.
Yeah the wire is already rated at higher than 15amps. It is safe if it is modern wiring. I wouldn’t do it with knob-and-tube, but any solid core 14awg thhn should work at 12 amps continuously. Just use the right extension cord. Hell, you could just swap the head on a 20amp extension cord to a 15amp head, and never have to worry about the cord at all.
Assuming code was followed for your house wiring, nothing is at risk there.
Big assumption, because houses aren’t all on NEC 2014, or 1999. Also assumes the circuit isn’t in use for other things - garage door openers are very convenient and are supposed to be on a reserved circuit, assumes that the connections are tight, and oxidation free.
There are reports of new dryer outlets melting because while they meet code, they aren’t constructed to run full output for 12h+ straight, charging a Silverado. Never mind the 1965 Bakelite outlet in the garage.
I agree with your point in concept but in practice it’s best to get a good electrician to run a new circuit from the box in even somewhat recent construction. The absolute state of some DIY work that people just don’t know about.
but in practice it’s best to get a good electrician to run a new circuit from the box in even somewhat recent construction
The photo you linked was a dedicated circuit installed by a licensed electrician. Mistakes/freak accidents happen. As I said in another comment, think of how many millions of households use 1440W space heaters indoors and don’t burn down. That’s what TC is advocating here. By and large, it’s completely safe.
It was installed to code for a dryer, not a car.
That’s the same code.
I’d also argue, at least in the US, it’s only going to cost several hundred to have a 50 amp outlet installed.(mine cost $350 and I didn’t exactly comparison shop). Compared to the price of even a used EV that’s an easy investment to make.
That’s entirely dependent on your home. They often cost $1k+.
I needed a new panel, upgraded service from 100 to 200amp and a circuit to the garage, then installing the car charger. $3600 all in.
I don’t have an EV yet, but I already refuse (prefuse? pre-refuse?) to use an app to charge my car which pretty much locks me out of most fast chargers.
I’ve been WFH since COVID and only drive a few times a week. When I do get an EV hopefully in the next 1-3 years, it’s probably going to basically trickle-charge from a modest PV setup. If it takes 3 days to fully charge, so be it; it’d just be sitting there anyway. Though I’ll probably wire in a 220v level 2 charger (or whatever they’re classified as) on the rare occasion I need a faster charge.
you really don’t need to use apps to fast charge at most places.
Electrify America accepts credit cards, and while Tesla technically requires an app, once your card is saved, you just plug in and it figures out the rest.
I want a dumb electric car. Give me a Honda civic with button and knobs that can plug in. Boom insta buy.
But they ALL have to have an app, and all the extras I really dont want or need. Plus in my area it regularly gets very extreme temps that have messed up electric cars in the past. He talks about how batteries are not an issue…but I know at least 3 people that have had battery trouble with EVs and had to get them replaced.
Im waiting a bit for EVs, but the ability to plug in and not go to the pump is a very tempting offer.
i wish i was lucky enough to have a garage. we had to run a new circuit out to our townhouse parking lot anyway, so at that point we figured might as well make it an L2 charger. now we have 2 EVs and it would be way more of a pain in the ass (or impossible) to trickle charge them. not to mention i just prefer having the cable out as little as possible in a public space. also sucks having to deal with snow/ice freezing the plug to the car.
