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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: March 25th, 2024

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  • f4f4f4f4f4f4f4f4@sopuli.xyztoLemmy Shitpost@lemmy.worldPathetic
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    2 days ago

    I think micro-rusting does the damage here. I oiled a cheap disposable-head razor after every use and the blades were still sharp enough over a year later when the rubber/silicone flex point (hinge?) fell apart.

    Sneaky bastards had to specifically add in that part that was vulnerable to oil.









  • Old ports are iffy. Often they were written from scratch with new assets resembling the originals thrown in. I could see limited storage and memory making a lot of extra work, cleaning up code to make room for crediting people who basically only served as inspiration for this version of the game. Meanwhile, the publishers are breathing down the devs’ necks, trying to get the ports to market as quickly as possible.

    It’s a dick move to remove existing credits, though.

    I was wondering if “Booby Master” got his nickname from having BRA initials that would show up on high-score tables.

    Somewhat off-topic: I was in another post about Colecovision and thought this was funny: Donkey Kong by Nintendo ported to Atari 2600 by Coleco and distributed by Sega. Around the time of the big video game crash, everyone’s just doing whatever they can for a paycheck.











  • Most of these are difficult to mess with, because, like you discovered, there’s some kind of internal database of ROMs. Worse, this doesn’t appear to have a JAMMA harness so the board can only be replaced with a similar one.

    I would see if someone from TeamPandory can identify your board for getting a custom firmware on there. I’ve seen a lot of this type of board in which the bottom-of-the-barrel-quality micro SD card suddenly dies, then you lose the encryption key and the board is just garbage.

    At the very least, backup the micro SD card to an image. I use GNOME Disk Manager that’s built into Linux Mint. Programs like balenaEtcher can do it on Windows but like Windows, they have telemetry (spy on you).

    Edit: As others noted, the “S812” is relevant, the board seems to be based on Allwinner H3 like other “Pandora’s Box” (the name is more appropriate than it should be). You could do something like this or rewire the controls into “zero-delay encoders” to turn them into USB controllers to connect to any Pi or PC.